tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8472211903033725545.post3211881341964299690..comments2024-01-12T12:52:08.097-07:00Comments on Billlls Idle Mind: Glock Bulge BusterBillllhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13913354887560267235noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8472211903033725545.post-76950148869934515782019-03-02T05:29:46.295-07:002019-03-02T05:29:46.295-07:00Neutralização instantânea: nem as paredes salvam d...Neutralização instantânea: nem as paredes salvam do <a href="https://defesa.com.br/432/neutralizacao-instantanea-nem-as-paredes-salvam-do-fuzil-de-assalto-ash-12/" rel="nofollow">fuzil de assalto ASh-12</a>.Defesahttps://defesa.com.brnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8472211903033725545.post-18143735577908723472017-04-30T08:08:17.001-07:002017-04-30T08:08:17.001-07:00The .40s have a slight taper, but I decap and &quo...The .40s have a slight taper, but I decap and "size" mine before running them through the bulge die. The taper remains but the bulge is gone. The 9mm has a much steeper taper so running the brass through the crimping die will probably only remove the bulge to the diameter of the cartridge base (.391"). I don't shoot 9mm so I haven't looked. Question: Is the smallest diameter in the 9mm final crimp die equal to the largest diameter of the brass or is the taper included in the die?<br /><br />http://saami.org/specifications_and_information/publications/download/Z299-3_ANSI-SAAMI%20_CFPandR.pdf#page=10<br /><br />Best case the brass would be sized to the .394" maximum diameter of the brass at the point of the case bulge where the brass is supposed to be somewhat smaller.<br /><br />One fellow on the Glock forums said he ground his decapping die back to remove the inlet bevel from the bottom of the die allowing the die to go further down on the brass and get the bulge. For .40s and .45s, this probably works. For 9s this would make the overall taper smaller.The SAAMI page says the outside taper goes back 1/2". Measuring a couple of pieces of 9mm brass, the inside part goes back .56 to .59" which suggests that any bulge would be below the tapered part. Pushing your decapping die .09" further down would make the top of the case .001" smaller. This makes the bullet go in a bit tighter but your final crimp should take everything back to spec.<br /><br />On a related note, I shoot 9x18 Makarov and I make my brass by trimming 9x19 brass back 1mm. The powder die flares the cartridge mouth to accept the larger Russian bullet and the final crimp brings the case mouth to Makarov specs. This means that the first time this goes through my gun the bullets have a slight hourglass profile to them. Once fired though, the brass is factory spec Makarov. I color the backs of the brass red and warn my fellow shooters that the "9mm Luger" brass with the red tails is 1mm too short to work in their Berettas and wind up getting most of it back.Billllhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13913354887560267235noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8472211903033725545.post-17880093825693827092017-04-30T05:36:43.059-07:002017-04-30T05:36:43.059-07:00I've looking for something like this for a lon...I've looking for something like this for a long time. Unfortunately, the product description at Midway USA says it is specifically not for 9mm. (because of the case taper???) Oh well, I still may make one up for 45ACP.<br /><br />Thanks for the info. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8472211903033725545.post-28134483298339915782017-04-29T15:40:08.357-07:002017-04-29T15:40:08.357-07:00Good to know. I shoot a G37 and carry a G26. The o...Good to know. I shoot a G37 and carry a G26. The only time I have ever experienced the Glock Bulge was with TulAmmo 9mm. But it was really Crap Brass Bulge that occurred during crimping. The TulAmmo brass is too soft to be reliably reloaded. tsquaredhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02737130316088634658noreply@blogger.com